Amptrol Foot Control Compatability

[sschefer]

I titled this Amptrol thinking Lincoln for some reason.. Doh...

Does anyone know if the standard Miller Foot control can be used on the 250 EX?

The reason I'm asking is because I've got my eye on the Miller wireless. I'm buliding a boat and it requires a lot of crawling in around and under. The EX will let me weld without a foot pedal in a lot of situations but I'm sure there will be times when I need one and one less cord would be nice.

Thanks in advance for responding.

[jakeru]

Steve - I don't know about the Miller foot control compatibility with the Everlast panel, but you might want to try out the torch switch first. I think it's a neat feature of Everlast TIG torch and is standard in all their torches.

I found I was able to control and vary the heat output level quite effectively in 2T mode by continuously toggling the switch between on and off, by varying the % of time (duty cycle of switch being pressed) I had the switch on versus off. If you set up the downslope to something like 2-3 seconds, the current level will gradually taper off so you'll be able to control the average heat by cycling the switch, without letting the arc go out.

Only downside to this is you might find you are slightly restricted in the way you must hold the torch in order to manipulate the switch. And you've got to do a bit of work to setup the downslope and peak current properly, but when you get it dialed in it works really quite well. Its great for those instances crouched or sitting down near the floor, etc where a footpedal really isn't too handy to use.

Just some food for thought. FWIW, I have an Everlast Super200P. (With a very short, 7' long? footpedal.)

[sschefer]

Steve - I don't know about the Miller foot control compatibility with the Everlast panel, but you might want to try out the torch switch first. I think it's a neat feature of Everlast TIG torch and is standard in all their torches.

I found I was able to control and vary the heat output level quite effectively in 2T mode by continuously toggling the switch between on and off, by varying the % of time (duty cycle of switch being pressed) I had the switch on versus off. If you set up the downslope to something like 2-3 seconds, the current level will gradually taper off so you'll be able to control the average heat by cycling the switch, without letting the arc go out.

Only downside to this is you might find you are slightly restricted in the way you must hold the torch in order to manipulate the switch. And you've got to do a bit of work to setup the downslope and peak current properly, but when you get it dialed in it works really quite well. Its great for those instances crouched or sitting down near the floor, etc where a footpedal really isn't too handy to use.

Just some food for thought. FWIW, I have an Everlast Super200P. (With a very short, 7' long? footpedal.)

Thanks. I had in mind doing alot of what you mention but I didn't think about toggling on/off on the switch in 2T mode. Great idea!! On my old Lincoln without the footpedal I'd just pre weld the edge about an inch and then when the puddle started to widen I'd just pickup the pace.

[Paul Moir]

A little googling tells me that the miller foot petals use a 1Kohm pot. I know my Everlast uses a 47K. It's just a voltage divider but that's too different to work I would think.


I found "modulating" in 2T mode quite effective as well when not using the foot pedal.