New 250EX owner, a few problems

[Adambomb]

Mark: The cheapest, silver helmet is the unit I have. Tig welding. Sensitivity is adjusted to maximum sensitivity. Covers and lense are clean. Sensors are unobstructed. If I lean any more, I'll be laying on the work piece. I kinda figured if I can clearly see the arc, then the sensors are exposed as well and should trigger. Of note, on low power settings, as soon as I strike an arc, the shade triggers, then immidiately switches back and stays undarkened. Based on that, I figure the sensor must be exposed but something is keeping it from staying triggered.

[performance]

close your left eye....see if you are seeing the arc and the full puddle with your right...If you aren't then you need to reposition your torch angle or yourself. If you can't see the puddle with your right eye, (assuming a right handed person is using it, if not then the left), the sensor can't either.

[Adambomb]

I'll give it a shot a little later Mark.

I recieved the CMOS chip in the mail today, as well as something that looks like a hollow chip and 2 resistors. Paul, Mike, Ray, can any of you give me a quick run down of which parts I am replacing on which board again? Mike, I just called and left you a message, but its 9:45 (EST)on Sat. night, so I hope you're enjoying an evening with your family. Tomorrow is my day off, so I'd like to get this fixed tonight and have the welder up to full speed.

[Adambomb]

So, based on Pauls description, this is the board causing the trouble.

[Adambomb]

If that is indeed the board, then I see the chip and the two diodes, but I don't see where this would go Mike:

[Adambomb]

FYI Mike, when you ship electrical components, you might want to package them a bit better. When I got your envelope, it looked like it had 8 staples in one corner of it. This is what the envelopes looked like after part "extraction"

[Ray]

Adam thats the correct board, the other thing is a socket for the chip , remove the old chip and install the socket then insert the chip into that, rememer to ground yourself to the case it's a CMOS chip and is static sensitive. Only change the dioeds if they test bad, feel free to give me a call tomarow (Sunday ) if you like.

[Adambomb]

Thanks for the response Ray, I might end up giving you a call. Unfortunately, I have to make a trip to the electronics store tomorrow. While attempting to repair the shipping damage to both the socket and the CMOS chip, they both lost a leg or two I can't seem to catch a break! What values (resistance in ohms?)should the diodes be? I see a 48 printed on them. I apologise, electronics are my weakest area.

[everlastsupport]

FYI Mike, when you ship electrical components, you might want to package them a bit better. When I got your envelope, it looked like it had 8 staples in one corner of it. This is what the envelopes looked like after part "extraction"

I had someone send out the small yellow envelope for me, and I can not manage the post office, let alone around Christmas. I have done this for others without a hitch. Sorry if they damage the parts, but I was only trying to help. The diodes should not be required, but if you want to replace the 1N4148's that is fine.

So do you need us to send you another chip? I can pad the chip.

[Adambomb]

I had someone send out the small yellow envelope for me, and I can not manage the post office, let alone around Christmase. I have done this for others without a hitch. Sorry if they damage the parts, but I was only trying to help. The diodes should not be required, but if you want to replace the 1N4148's that is fine.

I never said you needed to control the post office Mike. None of us can. I only wanted you to know that for shipping that kind of electrical componant long distances....2700 miles- you (or whomever that does it) needs to packagage these chips with more protection. I know you were only trying to help, just like I am only trying to get help. It also has nothing to do with whether or not I WANT to replace the new chip, but rather that I NEED to replace it and the socket since they are now broken. Thank you for the chip reference number, it'll help when I'm at Fry's looking for it's replacement.

Mike, you and I have never spoken but I trust you got my voicemail? I was simply giving you a heads up with what can/did happen when shipping repair parts of this nature. I was not attacking......and considering the circumstances and the trouble I have had getting this welder to work correctly, I believe I have been extremely reasonable and understanding throughout the continuing diagnosis and repair process. I know Everlast has had customers scream bloody murder on several other forums for MUCH less cause.

[everlastsupport]

I have not checked my voicemail, I will tomorrow, Monday.

And again sorry about the post office crushing the chip. I handed them off last Sunday for them to be mailed. Will not happen again.

BTW: I did take it a little personal with my name in it, pictures of the obvious post office damage and it being in a public forum. My email works fine for things like this.

Everlast did not send that to you, I did trying to help out outside of Everlast. I have done this more than once as well. The parts were my personal parts, I paid the shipping myself (well my wife did, who put them in the envelope) on a Sunday. I was just trying to help and sorry it did not work out.

[everlastsupport]

Adambomb,

I just checked my voicemail (I didn't wait until tomorrow) and have no voicemail from an Adam? Checked my call log sheets as well. So I did not get your message. If you want to email or PM the details if other than what you posted about the chip, I can see if I can help out.

[performance]

Mike,
Adam by his remarks and phone calls, has us confused. He left it on mine, calling me Mike.

[Adambomb]

Your right Mark, I keyed in the wrong extension....yours instead of Mikes.

Mike, I picked up replacement sockets and another CMOS chip, but I'm not convinced it is the correct replacement. Please send me another replacement chip. If you could, ship it in a small box, like one of the USPS flat rate shipping boxes or something. I'll even send you the $5 if I need to

[jakeru]

If there are any common electronic components you need, Adam (or others reading this) and don't want to be dependant on Everlast to supply them, I had really good experience recently ordering small quantity of parts from a place called digikey. They are at http://www.digikey.com

For small enough weight, they even offer US post first class mail option. I ordered three microswitches to repair a broken microwave oven, and they were competitive in price (a couple bucks a piece), and very competitive on shipping (under $2 via US Post first class mail!) I was surprised it actually came in a small box, as I was expecting a padded envelope. They probably have the chip and socket you need, if you have the info and patience to find exactly what it is on their web site. Digikey was cheaper than mouser in both parts and shipping by the way.

Just another option aside from waiting for the parts from Mike, or keep in mind in case you need other specialty electronic parts. Best of luck

[Adambomb]

Thanks for the link jakeru, they do list the IC chip, and it's half the price I paid for the wrong one I just bought.

[Adambomb]

I was wondering about the green and red LED's on the top main board. I have noticed there is a red LED lit......is this an indicator of a fault, or is this normal? It on the left side of the board, approximately mid point down the edge. Also, I noticed signifigant deformation of the top structural frame panel the main board bolts too, similar to Froaders last machine. The sag in the center of the panel is .25"-.35" below the ends. I wonder if this damage is a visual representation of abuse the machine suffered in transit that caused my original issues....... I'm just waiting on the USPS to deliver another multiplexor chip in the hopes that it will solve my pedal troubles. Fingers crossed!!

[Den]

Adam,
The first thing Everlast had me do to check out my 250EX after it arrived with a broken front bezel was to remove the cover and check the straightness of the upper frame holding the top board. Mine was straight, so I was given the option to fire it up and see how it worked. I got the impression, however, that had it been bent, they would have had me return the unit for replacement. Holding a straight edge to mine, there was no gap. More than 1/4 inch seems like a lot and would make one think it took quite a hit.
-Dennis

[Adambomb]

Thanks for the reference Dennis. I may be looking at a replacement welder anyway....

Mike, I recieved your package today and the multiplexor and extra diodes arrived unharmed. I removed the one diode that I had damaged and replaced it. I grounded myself on the welder chassis and picked up the new chip, pulled it free of the foam and plugged it in. I turned on the welder and WTF?????? The high frequency arc across the HF points just kept buzzing away! I cycled the machine off and on several times and each time, the HF buzz would not shut off. I have NO idea what to look at now, or why this would happen with a new chip. Does Everlast have any 250EX's in stock if I can't easily fix this new problem???

[Ray]

After talking with Adam there is more damage to this unit than we initially thought, probably due to shipping damage from the original delivery. A replacement unit is going out.