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Thread: ac tig settings

  1. #1

    Question ac tig settings

    HI! im sure you guys have answered this thousands of time before, but im gonna ask it my self a time too

    what would be the best general settings for tig ac ? i mean really general, like i can set it once and for all, im really new to aluminium i dont know what frequency does, i have kind of got that balance is the part of cleening per part of penetration so what would be a setting that i can dile and forget ?

    an example is :

    ac frequency: ?
    ac balance: ?
    wave setting (quare,sinus triangle etc.): ?
    any thing else ?
    kind regards!
    Emil

  2. #2

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    I haven't fired my 225lx up yet, but I am planning on going over jody's youtube videos (weldingtipsandtricks.com) he goes over all of the settings on a 250ex and does a good job of explaining them. he even gives a baseline setting like you are looking for. I believe there is a link somewhere on the forum but just go to his site and look.

  3. Default

    From what I remember from Jody's videos he said that a good all around setting is about 120 herts on the AC frequency knob and about 30% on the AC balance knob. Im using close to these setting and am now getting good results.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iil View Post
    HI! im sure you guys have answered this thousands of time before, but im gonna ask it my self a time too

    what would be the best general settings for tig ac ? i mean really general, like i can set it once and for all, im really new to aluminium i dont know what frequency does, i have kind of got that balance is the part of cleening per part of penetration so what would be a setting that i can dile and forget ?

    an example is :

    ac frequency: ?
    ac balance: ?
    wave setting (quare,sinus triangle etc.): ?
    any thing else ?
    kind regards!
    Emil
    If new to TIG/Aluminum (but not TIG welding). I would leave the pulse off to start. Use 100Hz-130Hz. 30% pluse or minus. Dial it in from there.

    Normally I would ask the thickness, to help with the amps, electrode size, etc.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chugiak , Alaska
    Posts
    259

    Post

    Here are some of my observations, having introduced many to tig welding for the first time and also watched many welders of vastly varying skill levels and experience. I’ve been welding for a lot of years but have not had any formal training since well the 80’s so again my opinion only here, from the school of hard knocks.

    First off I recommend watching this video from Jody if you haven’t already.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwB4PESPAlI

    Get something flat to start on, don’t start right off with tubing or T joints, plan on using up some gas and filler rod. I personally recommend some 4043 filler to start with as it flows nicely and is easy to work with, 3/32” is good to start with on what Jody is showing. Looks like a 3/32” tungsten to me also. Leave the pulse off use your pedal.

    I have noticed, again just my observation take it or leave it, newbies seem to like a little higher a/c frequency than old time tig welders, it seems smoother and I guess “tighter” but get some time in and play with it, the sound changes from a motor boat kind of sound to a mosquito as you raise the frequency. Lower freq seems to spread the heat more, but seems to bust up the oxide easer. I personally seem to move the torch around more than most, but have seen some pipe welders that swing the thing around like a whip. And I’ve seen some boat guys intentionally ball up the tungsten and turn the freq way down and the balance way up and lay out a stack of dimes you would not believe, hardly seem to move the torch at all, looks like they control the puddle with mental telepathy or something.

    Listen to the video and set your freq so it sounds like the video to start with, get a beverage and some pre-sharpened tungsten and go through a bottle of gas, if you start getting frustrated take a break and watch a video. Just keep in mind these guys have been doing this a long time, if you’ve ever watched a really good juggler it looks so darn easy. But we know better, welding is similar.
    Some people get it faster than others, some unfortunately never seem to get it, most are somewhere in the middle.
    ____
    Ray

    Everlast Sales and Support Team.
    support@everlastalaska.com
    www.everlastalaska.com

    877-755-9353 X207

  6. #6

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    I'd echo Ray, EXCEPT. Don't use your pedal. This is another complication factor. You need to know what amps work for you and what doesn't. It helps you to become a better technical welder. It also eliminates an additional step of coordination that must be learned. Using the torch switch helps develop manipulative talent as well.

    ALSO start off on steel if you haven't. It helps develop proper form and technique. Most welding schools teach steel and stainless before ever getting to Aluminum, because the steel lays the foundation for the skills needed for aluminum.

  7. #7

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    thanks alot guys! this has truly been an experience reading all your old/new tips and trics! kind regards for that its so great to ask a question (ever stupid newbe questions) and still get a decent answer! again thanks alot! i truly appreciate your help!
    as for the steel part, iv been welding for about half a year strictly on steel to get the feeling on TIG welding and i just thought it would be fun trying something new like aluminium
    Best regards!
    Emil

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chugiak , Alaska
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Yea, I was going to echo Mark on the steel, but kind of assumed you had worked with Dc some.
    Mark has good advise, to me the pedal is kind of like a crescent wrench to a mechanic, a professional wouldn’t be caught dead with one, it’s a sloppy tool, but if you can’t look at the bolt and determine the size it’ll save you some trips back and forth to the tool box, but you run the risk of rounding off a bolt head. Maybe a strange comparison but it works for some.

    If your comfortable with working steel, I think you’ll find aluminum is not as tough as you might have thought. Just diferent.
    ____
    Ray

    Everlast Sales and Support Team.
    support@everlastalaska.com
    www.everlastalaska.com

    877-755-9353 X207

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